I have a little confession to make, although I think you already know it if you have been following me for a while: researching and using cosmetic ingredients that are like hidden gems is one of the things I love the most in DIY cosmetics.

In this article, I’ll talk about some ingredients and tools you might not know yet. Some of them are so special that they may really surprise you, especially a small little tool that you’ll discover later and that feels as if it came directly from a fairy tale.

If you are getting a little bored of the usual DIY beauty ingredients and want to discover something more unusual, stay with me. This article will inspire you, give you new formulation ideas and hopefully teach you something new for your own little WonderLab.

We’ll explore rare Amazonian butters, lightweight oils, a natural wax for cosmetic history experiments, special water friendly micas, elegant containers and a little surprise. 

And since this is part 4 of my Handymade ingredients review, I also invite you to read the previous chapters: part 1, where I shared my favourite sensorial little gems, the ingredients that can naturally scent cosmetics; part 2, dedicated to more advanced ingredients that make DIY cosmetics more professional; and part 3, where I explored 12 functional actives you should really know and try, including some that are especially useful for summer skincare.

Rare lipids to discover

Since this is a WonderLab and not just another DIY cosmetics lab, let’s start with some oils and butters that will probably surprise you.

Ucuuba butter

Have you ever heard about ucuuba butter?

This Amazonian hidden treasure, obtained from Virola surinamensis seeds, is probably one of the hardest butters you can find. It has a melting point of around 53°C (for comparison, cocoa butter melts around 35°C and kokum butter around 40°C) with a dry and almost waxy touch and a lovely amber colour.

Its composition is quite unusual because it contains an exceptionally high percentage of myristic acid, followed by lauric acid and then palmitic acid. This fatty acid profile explains its hard structure, dry touch and interesting cosmetic personality. It is also appreciated in formulas for its soothing and antiseptical character, and I see potential not only in solid body products, but also in hair care and deodorant bars,

Another interesting point is that it does not contain allergens and can be suitable for sensitive skin. It can be heated, but you should keep it under 60°C, adding it toward the end of the heated phase, after the harder ingredients of the formula have already melted.

And what about the smell? As you know, this is something I always care about. I find it earthy and somewhat resinous, and I can imagine it beautifully paired with resins like frankincense and benzoin, or with spa inspired natural fragrance blends.

As you can see, this is not just another butter. Its structure and consistency really intrigued me. I want to experiment with it in solid cosmetics, where it can give structure, hardness and better heat resistance. However, I would not use it alone: because it is so hard and dry, it needs to be paired with creamier butters or softer oils for better spreadability.

I also would not replace kokum or cocoa butter completely with ucuuba right away. I would start by replacing only part of them, then adjust depending on the final texture.

I already have many ideas in mind and you will definitely see recipes with ucuuba butter on the blog soon.

Watermelon seed oil

Continuing with lipids, let’s now talk about oils.

Watermelon seed oil is refined and fragrance-free, but still very interesting because it is lightweight and especially suitable for oily and acne-prone skin cosmetics.

It is rich in linoleic acid, a fatty acid that can support the skin barrier and is often appreciated in formulas for combination or oily skin for being sebum balancing. It gives a light and elegant touch without the heavy feel of richer oils.

I see it beautifully in face oils or as a lightweight carrier oil for oil based perfumes.

Plum kernel oil

Plum kernel oil has a subtle natural marzipan aroma.

It is lightweight, but with a soft and velvety touch thanks to its high content of oleic acid, which is its main fatty acid, followed by linoleic acid. It is usually considered low comedogenic, around 1–2.

Green coffee bean oil

And then, a star worth knowing: green coffee bean oil.

This oil feels like a botanical espresso for dull and tired skin, but it is also interesting for massage oils and body creams focused on cellulitis and circulation boost.

It has an impressive antioxidant profile, making it especially beautiful for mature and tired skin. It is also soothing and rich in sterols, which makes it more than a simple emollient oil.

Its fatty acid profile contains linoleic acid, but its main fatty acid is usually palmitic acid. Its comedogenicity rating is around 2–3, so it can be used on the face, but I would recommend using it in small quantities and preferably when the skin is not particularly blemish-prone. Personally, I see its best potential mainly in body formulas or in mature skin blends, where it can bring antioxidant support, a richer emollient feel and a beautiful well-aging story.

Jojoba wax

You may never imagine why I chose jojoba wax.

No, it is not simply because I wanted to add another wax to my collection. I chose it for something very curious: I want to use it to reproduce some antique formulas I found in my old cosmetic formularies, replacing a waxy and texturising ingredient that is thankfully no longer available today, but was used a lot in the past: spermaceti, a waxy substance that came from whales.

The main modern replacement for this ingredient is cetyl palmitate, but it is not always easy to find for DIY makers. Jojoba wax is another possible option, even if it is not exactly the same, and I want to experiment with both.

You will hear more about this in one of my next cosmetic history posts, because this is exactly the kind of curious formulation investigation I love.

Micas, but with something special

Handymade has an impressive collection of micas and pigments, so if you enjoy making makeup, shimmering body products or decorative cosmetics, you may feel a little like you have entered a colour paradise. They have so many shades and tones!

I chose these micas, all with an INCI that is allowed in natural cosmetics: 

But now comes the most interesting part, especially if you love making bath bombs, bath salts, solid shampoos or other rinse-off cosmetics: Aquapearl micas. And they are even suitable for making watercolours, so one day I will definitely experiment with that too!

Apart from their amazing pearlescent colours, what makes Aquapearl micas different is that they are designed for use in water. This means they can give beautiful colours without leaving the same kind of residue in the bath that can happen with regular micas.

The ones I selected are:

I checked the INCI to make sure they are suitable for natural cosmetics. In any case, remember that these special micas are meant for water and rinse-off cosmetics, not for makeup.

Cosmetic containers

Cosmetic containers are another impressive part of Handymade. Their selection is huge, and you can basically find almost anything you can imagine: different shapes, different materials, different closures, sprays, airless bottles, caps, droppers, jars and matching options that allow you to create your own skincare collections with coordinated packaging.

They also have different colours and variants, which is something I really appreciate because packaging can completely change the feeling of a formula.

In the picture, you can see the containers I selected and you may already recognise one of them from my raspberry body mist recipe.

I chose the amber glass ones because I love glass containers. Dark glass also helps protect cosmetics from light, which can be useful for better preservation of sensitive ingredients… and I find this shape very elegant!

I also really like the white and silver airless jar. Apart from looking elegant, it is designed to protect the cosmetic from fingers and external contamination, while also giving a more precise dosage. This is something I especially appreciate in cosmetics that are more delicate and more challenging to preserve.

Something you don’t expect, directly from a fairy tale

And now we are coming to the end, with the most surprising and lovely find: a diffuser pendant.

I love it because it feels so poetic. It brings me to another time, when women used to wear aromatic pendants of different kinds, sometimes with perfume, sometimes with powder sachets, sometimes as small scented objects close to the body.

The special thing about this pendant is that it lets you wear a fragrance without applying it directly to the skin. This can be very useful if you want to enjoy an essential oil blend or perfume without skin contact.

You simply place a felt pad inside (they have different colours, so you can even match them with your outfit) and then add a few drops of your favourite perfume or essential oil blend. You could even use a mosquito-repellent aromatic blend, which could be such a lovely idea for summer.

You can add essential oils directly, mixing different ones, although I always prefer preparing the aromatic blend in a small bottle first. This gives the aromatic compounds time to meet and become more harmonious. I usually suggest letting the blend rest in the bottle for at least a couple of days, or even better, one week before using it.

I chose the butterfly pendant, but there are different designs available. What I also like is that it is made of stainless steel, so it’s more durable and easy to use over time.

I absolutely love it and you will hear more about it soon, because I want to show you some beautiful essential oil blends you can use with it.

This little pendant was the perfect ending for this part of the review: romantic, practical and a little magical, exactly the kind of detail that reminds me why I love turning cosmetic ingredients and tools into something that make everyday life feel more beautiful!

Discount code and free gift

And as always, if you want to try some of these ingredients, you can use my 7% discount code WONDERLAB on Handymade.

They also include free gifts with every order, which I think is such a lovely detail for ingredient lovers. You just need to go to your cart and choose your gift before completing the order. One of the gifts available at the moment is Carrot CO₂ extract, a little golden summer gem I talked about in this Summer oil recipe.