Among all the waxes that dance through my wonder lab, candelilla wax holds a special place. If I had to choose only one wax to use into every solid bar I make, this would be it. Why? It’s a non-comedogenic wonder, with a high melting point and a lovely dry feeling.
Candelilla wax is plant-based and vegan, harvested from the leaves of the Euphorbia cerifera shrub. It's known as a lovely alternative to beeswax without compromising the performance.
What makes it so special? It’s protective, emollient and gives a subtle and silky gloss to bars. Unlike beeswax, which can feel creamy or sticky, candelilla has a dry-touch finish. Clean, elegant and incredibly perfect for facial products, as it’s not comedogenic. It adds structure without weight and elegance without greasiness. You can see it in cosmetic formulas like this one.
Candelilla wax melting point is between 69ºC and 75ºC, making it ideal for solid and resistant bars that won’t melt away at the first hint of warmth.
I love the way it shifts and transforms oils at different concentrations. As you can see in my Instagram Stories, I love to experiment and this is what I’ve observed in my formulations:
- At 1%, it thickens oils just enough to give them a protective veil, without losing their fluidity. It's my preferred choice over cetyl alcohol when I want to enhance the richness of a face oil while giving it that protective touch. Compared to a 4-5% cetyl alcohol blend, candelilla at 1% has a similar fluid thickness and is more protective, while cetyl alcohol only adds richness.
So, use candelilla for dry skin and protective face oils and cetyl alcohol to improve the texture keeping a lighter feeling. - At 5-6%, candelilla wax makes a jelly-like balm. Firm, but not heavy, with a fast-absorbing feeling. Perfect for face-friendly balms. There’s no greasy residue, just a satin and protective finish and a soothing, comfortable wear.
- For solid lotion bars, using 15-20% candelilla wax with around 35% cocoa or kokum butter creates a solid enough bar. My favorite pairing? Candelilla and kokum. Both are non-comedogenic, protective, and perfect for facial applications. When blended with oils, they form wonderful bars.
So, next time you're blending your own balm, serum bar, or facial oil, invite candelilla into the mix. It might not steal the spotlight, but will add value to your formula!