This nourishing yet fast‑absorbing DIY cream combines precious actives and is perfect as a daily regenerating hydrator or a soothing after‑sun balm.

It blends powerful tamanu oil (skin repair, healing, collagen stimulation), homemade Centella Asiatica extract (anti‑inflammatory, collagen‑stimulating) and niacinamide to boost collagen and ceramide production, even skin tone and soothe irritation.

For after‑sun comfort, I added regenerating macadamia oil, calming lightweight sesame oil, plus one of my favorite blends of aftersun essential oils: rosewood, palmarose and patchouli, with a lovely woody scent.

Cupuacu butter adds super hydration (retains over 240% its weight in water), antioxidant and anti‑inflammatory action, and gives extra creaminess, ideal for both structure and moisture.
Avocado oil adds barrier nourishment and has a lovely velvety feel that I always appreciate.
Everything is balanced with lightweight oils and Xyliance emulsifier, that has a lighter feel than Olivem 1000. 

Why a Barrier Repair Cream Matters in Your Skin Routine

Our skin barrier is delicate. Resilient, but also easily tipped out of balance. A few days of sun, wind or stress, and it starts whispering discomfort: tightness, flaking, dullness, sensitivity, dryness...That’s why we need barrier repair creams!

In this cream, every ingredient was chosen to support, soothe and gently rebuild. Here’s how:

• Tamanu oil – As explained in this extensive article, I treat it almost like an active. It's rich in calophyllolide and xanthones, both incredible for regeneration and wound healing. Just a few percent makes a visible difference. I use it sparingly to keep the scent soft, but it’s there, working hard.

• Centella asiatica extract – One of my favorite extract, that you can easily make at home by following this easy tutorial. It’s gentle, calming, and has real data behind its ability to stimulate collagen and calm inflammation. 

• Niacinamide (2%) – No trends here, just results! It strengthens the barrier, boosts ceramide production and helps even out redness. I find 2% is my sweet spot in this kind of formulas: effective, non-sensitizing, and plays well with the other actives. 

• Panthenol + Bisabolol – I call these my "comfort duo" and I add them in almost all my formulas to soothe, hydrate and restore. Together, they wrap the skin in calm.

This formula came out of my own need for something that would feel light and comfortable in summer, but act like a skin repair balm behind the scenes. Something I could reach for after long sun days or when I need to cuddle my skin.

If your skin is asking for softness, for care, for something to rebuild quietly and without greasyness, this might be the cream to try.

Ingredients

Phase A (oils & emulsifier)

• Xyliance: 5 %
• Cetearyl alcohol: 1.5 %
• Fractionated coconut oil*: 5 %
• Macadamia oil: 5 %
• Sesame oil: 6 %
• Cupuacu butter: 4 %
• Avocado oil: 5 %
  
  

Phase B (water phase)

• Water: 52.2 %
• Allantoin: 0.2 %
• Niacinamide: 2 %
  
  

Phase B1

• Xanthan gum: 0.2 %
• Guar gum: 0.2 %
• Glycerin: 1 %
  
  

Phase D (Cool‑down phase)

• Centella Asiatica extract: 5 %
• Betaine: 1.5 %
• Tamanu oil: 3 %
• Bisabolol: 0.5 %
• Panthenol: 1 %
• Rosewood EO: 0.4 %
• Palmarose EO: 0.3 %
• Patchouli EO: 0.4 %
• Cosgard preservative: 0.6 %
  
  

*I used fractionated coconut oil with ceramides (learn how to make it in another post), but regular fractionated coconut oil works fine too.

How to make it

1. In separate heat‑safe containers, weigh and prepare Phase A and Phase B.
   
   
2. In Phase B container: dissolve allantoin and niacinamide in water. Separately mix xanthan, guar and glycerin, then pour the water/allantoin/niacinamide mix onto them while stirring until gel forms.
   
   
3. Heat both Phase A and B in a water bath to around 70 °C, until everything is melted.
   
   
4. Pour Phase B into Phase A while blending with an immersion blender until smooth and uniform.
   
   
5. Stir occasionally as the emulsion cools to below 40 °C.
   
   
6. Add Phase D ingredients one by one, stirring well after each. Pre‑dissolve betaine in the centella extract before adding.
   
   
7. Measure pH, it should be around 5.5 (ideal for niacinamide - don’t go lower).
   
   
8. Transfer the cream into a jar.
   
   
   
   
   

Substitutions, Notes & Tips

• Xyliance substitute: use Olivem 1000, but texture will feel slightly greasier.
  
  
• You can swap oils with ones of similar properties. See this chart.
  
  
• Cupuacu butter may be replaced with mango or shea butter, but hydration and texture may change.
  
  
• Guar gum enhances spread and texture. Omitting it and using xanthan only will alter the feel slightly.
  
  
• Don’t confuse betaine (humectant) with coco‑betaine (a surfactant): they're not the same. Betaine rounds out the finish and softens dry/waxy waxy feel from Xyliance. You can omit it (increase water proportion), but I highly recommend it for its skin‑feel boost.
  
  
• Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol that stabilizes emulsion and creates a smooth, creamy feel. You may omit or replace with cetyl alcohol, but expect a less velvety finish.
  
  

Why this formula works

• Tamanu oil delivers collagen stimulation, wound healing and antioxidant protection even at low concentration. Learn more about it here.
  
  
• Centella Asiatica extract helps soothe inflammation and boosts collagen synthesis, supporting skin barrier repair. Learn how to make it here.
  
  
• Niacinamide reinforces ceramide production, evens tone, calms and strengthens skin barrier.
  
  

Looking for more collagen boosting creams? Try this recipe!