Let’s play a little game from my Wonderlab today…
Imagine, just for a moment, that you’re only allowed one oil. No blending, no layering, no picking and choosing. Just one to carry your entire cosmetic vision: your balms, serums, lotions... and dreams!
Feels like a nightmare? I know. Especially for those of us who believe deeply in the art of the spreadability cascade when formulating.
But stay with me, because this little thought experiment might just make you see your ingredients with new eyes and spark inspiration for your formulation journey. And somewhere along the way, I’ll reveal something you might not know about these oils that DIY skincare lovers like so much… but I won’t spoil it just yet!
The Challenge: 4 Familiar Faces
On this ingredient challenge we welcome four iconic and well known oils:
- Jojoba Oil
- Fractionated Coconut Oil
- Coconut Oil
- Sweet Almond Oil
They all have a place in our cabinets, but only one can stay.
To choose wisely, we should follow a certain logic, shaped by years of testing, experimenting and trusting the alchemy of texture and function.
My Criteria for the “One and Only”
It’s quite clear to me. If I could only choose one oil, it would have to be:
- Non-comedogenic, so it’s versatile and safe for facial use
- Heat-stable, to work in all types of formulations
- Resistant to rancidity, an important point, avoiding to waste ingredients
- Neutral in smell, so it plays well with any scent profile
- Rich in benefits, because it must do something
- Lovely sensorially – the texture and feel must be divine and suitable for any formula
With these in mind…
The First Elimination: Coconut & Almond
Even if adored by most DIY skincare lovers (though I must admit they’ve never been my personal favorites), coconut and almond oil simply can’t keep up with this demanding challenge.
❌ They can be comedogenic (a no-go for face formulas)
❌ Almond oil spoils quickly and doesn’t tolerate heat well
And so, we let them go.
The Final Showdown: Jojoba vs. Fractionated Coconut Oil
We’re down to two oils that meet the essential criteria:
- Jojoba Oil – non-comedogenic, skin loving properties rich, fast-absorbing, stable
- Fractionated Coconut Oil – non-comedogenic, lightweight, conditioning, stable, interesting properties
And here’s where the real internal battle begins.
Jojoba, a Real Jem
Jojoba almost miraculously mimics our skin’s natural sebum. It’s suitable for every skin type and rich in vitamin E, antioxidants and gentle sebum balancing properties. Also, it’s anti-inflammatory and soothing.
But here’s my personal truth: I’ve never been a huge fan.
Why? Because I’m quite obsessed with texture and feel. And jojoba, while elegant and dry-touch, often absorbs too fast, which might sound like a blessing, but it disrupts the spreadability and longevity of a product’s hydrating effect. In emulsions especially, it can slightly “brake” the glide. And for me, that’s a real dealbreaker in sensorial beauty.
Still, it’s hard to let go of those skin-loving properties, especially if the other one cannot offer more…
Fractionated Coconut Oil, The Silky Performer
Now, let’s analyze fractionated coconut oil, a must have for any expert DIY Cosmetics formulator.
It’s silky, conditioning, with a light touch and makes every product feel instantly more professional. It doesn’t just moisturize, it glides and dances across the skin. It’s the kind of oil that gives your balm a perfect finish.
But it lacks the wide skin-nourishing profile of jojoba. It’s hydrating, antimicrobial and the best choice for deodorants, but it’s not a nutritional powerhouse. So, you would need to add more actives to compensate it.
My Final Choice (Reluctantly)
If this were reality and not a thought experiment, I’d fight hard to keep both.
But if I had to choose…
I would choose jojoba.
Not because it’s my favorite (it’s not), but because I couldn’t give up the functionality and nourishment it provides. A beautiful texture is a joy, but a cosmetic that works deeply is non-negotiable in my skincare philosophy.
Of course, I would do everything to compensate, like:
- Adding cetearyl alcohol for a creamier, richer feel
- Using actives like Fucocert to boost slip and hydration retention
- Adjust ratios and experiment endlessly, because that’s what I love to do in my little Wonderlab.
And If I Chose Fractionated Coconut?
Then I would boost the formula with high-performing actives.
Ceramides III, for instance, pair beautifully with it and both can resist the high heat needed for Ceramides (90°C). I would build a formula that uses actives as heroes and let the oil become the silky base for their stage.
Something to Keep in Mind
There’s no single right answer, only what fits your skin, your style and your cosmetic philosophy.
This little challenge, though hypothetical, is a reminder of how powerful our ingredient knowledge is. When we truly understand our materials, we can create anything, even when our options feel limited. That’s the beauty of mindful formulating.
One Last Surprise…
Remember earlier when I hinted at something that might sound surprising for some?
Well, neither jojoba oil nor fractionated coconut oil is actually a true oil.
Jojoba, with its golden elegance, is technically a liquid wax ester. That’s one reason why it's so uniquely compatible with our skin.
Fractionated coconut oil, on the other hand, is not simply coconut oil in liquid form. It's a specially processed version, where most of the heavier fatty acids have been removed. What’s left is the lightest, silkiest part of the oil, that stays liquid at room temperature, remains stable even at high heat and delivers that signature conditioning touch we love in cosmetics that contain it.
So, while we commonly name them “oil,” these two are in their own unique categories. And maybe that’s why they shine so brightly, because they’re not trying to be like the others.
The beauty of formulating lies in these small surprises, where science, needs and creativity meet in a quiet and unexpected harmony.